My wife and I frequently pass Sardegna restaurant in Larchmont and we often state how happy we are that they’re still in business. I know that’s an odd observation to make, but we mean it sincerely. Every time we’ve been to the restaurant, the owners and staff have been friendly and accommodating and the food is always delicious. Sardegna’s web site says it best; they provide a “casual but elegant dining experience that is not too expensive with fine quality food”. Most appetizers are $10 and under, the pastas are under $20 and the entrées range from $18 to $24 – a bargain for dining out in Westchester. Unfortunately, Sardegna never seems that crowded, which is why we’re occasionally relieved to see that they’re still open. So over Memorial Day weekend, we decided that we should do our part to support our local restaurant and celebrate the cuisine of Italy’s second largest island.
The walls of Sardegna are lined with celebratory masks and photos and prints of Sardinia and sure, the paper place mats with a map and description of Sardinia are a little diner-esque, but somehow it all manages to avoid feeling tacky or overdone. Maybe it’s because once you sit down you begin to appreciate that this isn’t just another “red sauce” Italian joint. This restaurant is a celebration of the proprietor’s native land and like many islands in the Mediterranean, the food and culture of Sardinia has been distinctly influenced by conquering empires, as well as the terrain, resources and ingredients that are unique to the island.
Sardegna’s menu reflects these influences and is a mixed of traditional Italian dishes – you can have your chicken grilled, Sorrentino, Francese, Milanese or Parmigiana, and regional Sardinian specialties (highlighted in red on the menu). For me, this is a no-brainer; I can get chicken parm at the pizzeria, but there are a handful of other items that you don’t see on very many menus. To start, my wife and I decided to share the pane carasau and bomas alla sarda. The pane carasau, a crispy flatbread with mozzarella and rosemary, may be Sardinia’s most recognizable specialty. The flatbread is made to be torn apart with your hands and is a delicious vehicle for the favorable toppings. The bombas, or meatballs, are probably my favorite dish at Sardegna and I don’t think I’ve eaten here without ordering them. Not only are the meatballs soft and delicate, but the marinara sauce is to die for. It has the perfect balance of acidity and richness without having the taste of being artificially sweetened (like most store bought sauces). To wash it all down, I had a Vermentino, a white wine made from the grape that is widely planted on Sardinia.
For my entrée I had a bit of a dilemma…do I go for the bottariga or another one of the other Sardinian specialties. As much as I love bottariga, I had just had it earlier in the week at Meritage and I decided to resist the urge to conduct a taste test. Instead, I went with the Culingiones, ravioli stuffed with ricotta and pecorino Sardo. This dish was as heavenly as the bombas. The ravioli were light and fluffy like little pillows of cheese and they were dressed with the same tomato sauce that adorned the meatballs. My wife had the Spaghetti ai Granchi with crabmeat, tomato, garlic and white wine. This was a nice dish, but it seemed like it was missing something. Maybe the tomatoes could have been riper or maybe the sauce could have used a little acidity or some herbs to brighten it up a bit…perhaps some lemon zest and basil would have done the trick. Nonetheless, this was a nice combination of flavors and I actually think I’ll try to replicate this dish at home, with the noted additions.
Although the host claimed that Sardegna makes the best crème brulee (not the recommendation I was expecting), we decided to skip dessert and set out for a short walk home. We hope that Sardenga, which has been open for a number of years, continues to prosper and we look forward to many repeat visits.
